Is Skin Needling worth the bloody trauma?
In short, when done properly by a very experienced trained professional with the correct equipment, Skin Needling rocks it's ass off. And yes, there will probably be blood.
After seeing women who looked like they had gone 10 rounds with Mike Tyson post Skin Needling I was completely put off by the idea. I was remarkably unimpressed and somewhat distressed. I thought some folks must be okay with resembling Freddie Kruger for a few days, all in the name of looking younger, but I was really quite alarmed.
Yet Skin Needling continues to pop up in my World, like weight loss, magic pants, incontinence pads and fat blasting ads (gah!). After researching for this story I'm beyond eager to give Skin Needling a whirl.
So is Skin Needling worth the bloody trauma?
Kim Kardashian famously posted this image during a "bloody facial" treatment. A blood or 'vampire' facial per Kardashian is a different beast to needling. That's another beauty story for another time.
I've interviewed highly trained and experienced therapists from both the 100% natural organic scene and traditional beauty worlds to get the goss on the needle buzz. Let's start by saying you should NEVER resemble Freddie Kruger after Skin Needling. That's a sign your therapist is not using the right equipment. Don't go back.
Here is what I've uncovered:
+Skin Needling is also called CIT - Collagen Induction Therapy - and Mesotherapy.
+ It's a WINNER of a treatment for the pro-ageing woman.
+ There will be blood (but you'll have your eyes closed so won't need to see all that).
+ You absolutely shouldn't scab, bruise, or scar - and if you do - your therapist may be using cheap equipment or using a needle that's too thick or too long.
+ You'll look just like a Brit after their first day baking on Bondi Beach - ie SUPER sunburnt!
+ Skin Needling is amazing for minimising pores, reducing fine lines, acne scarring, stretch marks, pigmentation and brightening your complexion.
+ Collagen takes time to build and you'll need several sessions.
+ Expect to pay from $900+ for 3 sessions. Cheaper options may put your health at risk.
WHAT IS A DERMAL ROLLER?
It's a roller with hundreds of small needles attached. As you roll you "needle" the skin.
WHAT IS MICRO NEEDLING OR SKIN NEEDLING?
Although Micro Needling may look a little frightening, it is actually much gentler than you think. Micro Needling doesn't damage the epidermis, the very top layer of your skin. The needles create pin point punctures to break up old collagen strands and induce fresh, new collagen and elastin. These 2 proteins form the scaffolding in the skin and are needed for the structural support of the skin.
Before needling treatment, you are prepped with a topical anaesthetic to numb your skin. Some reddening is to be expected, the downtime is minimal and you should have recovered after 2 days (read, you'll resemble a beetroot for 2 days).
Experienced Beauty Therapist Alex Owens explains "Basically the essence of skin needling is tricking our skin into thinking it's young again by reactivating growth factors, so the skin acts as it did in our younger days. As we age our skin cell renewal (which when we are young is as quick as 20 days) slows down to 30 days or more in us 40+ folk. This is why older skins appear rougher, lined and dull. Skin needling can help to slow and reverse this."
SKINMATRIX skinmatrix.com.au are experts in combating acne and pro ageing treatments. Founder and Paramedical Aesthetician Sarah Wilkinson says "Micro needling itself is not dangerous, it depends on the training of the operator. As there is no thermal heat like lasers there are minimal negative side effects." Sarah says "The skin goes through the same process as when we cut ourselves. But in this case the needle perforations are controlled and promote intense rebuilding in the skins matrix - the dermal layer where all the good stuff lies - the protein fibres we need to keep our skins looking fresh and youthful".
Hearing this really peaked my interest!
At home VS in clinic dermal rolling.
AT HOME DERMAL ROLLING
The dermal rollers you can use at home are commonly 0.2 - 0.5mm in length and serve the function of penetrating products into the skin rather than really inducing collagen production. "Apply hyraluronic acid serum then use the dermal roller to encourage the product to go into the skin" advises Sarah Wilkinson.
Your home needling device should NOT draw blood. Sarah from SkinMatrix warns "Be mindful of the needle length. Anything longer than 0.75mm needle length for home use opens your skin increasing the chance of infection". Dermastamp recommend nothing longer than 0.5mm for home use.
THE RULES: If the needles are more than 0.5mm, don't try it at home. Make sure your skin is squeaky clean, sterilise your derma roller, use impeccable hygiene... and if you're still game, tread carefully. Sarah Wilkinson says "Never do a 1.5mm dermal roller at home, I have seen clients with infections from performing needling at home with the 1.5mm needle.
Mukti Organics do a home dermal roller, with micro needles of 0.25mm AU $54.95. Click here to read more about Mukti Microneedle Dermal Roller. But remember this will only serve to help 'massage' the product into the skin. It will not create any trauma, nor reach the layer of skin that you need to induce collagen production. Safe but not needling per se.
SkinMedix do a home dermal roller, with micro needles of 0.5mm AU $37. Click here to read more about SkinMedix Microneedle Dermal Roller. Rollers are proven to increase the absorption of the active ingredients in your creams, lotions, and serums.
NEEDLING AT HOME? MUST HAVE HYALURONIC ACID.
Yogana Love Skin Plumping Serum
This product is THE BOMB! It plumps your skin cells with a 100% natural and active serum containing 3 simple ingredients: Hyaluronic Acid, Water & Radish Root. Radish root is used to preserve the formula, while the water turns the hyaluronic acid powder into a gel. Hyaluronic acids main function is hydration, it has been proven scientifically to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water and will help to instantly hydrate and plump the skin tissues. A must have. Pop this serum on your skin, then use your dermal roller. Phenomenal results. And it's organic, so no hidden nasties. Loving this new Australian brand of affordable, organic skincare. Yes!
$48 for 30ml. Click HERE to buy from me and save $5.
IN CLINIC - PROFESSIONAL SKIN NEEDLING
THE BENEFITS OF SKIN NEEDLING.
Oh the list is long ...
+ Collagen production, reduce wrinkles, sagging skin
+ Increased topical product absorption
+ Regulated pigmentation
+ Reduced appearance of rosacea
+ Reduced pore size
+ Reduced size of scar tissue
+ Reduced appearance of stretch marks
WHAT CAN YOU EXPECT AFTER A SKIN NEEDLING TREATMENT?
"Expect to be red for 24-48 hours in which 99.9% of my clients can cover with make up on the second day. The needle width used will dictate your downtime. The thinner the needle width the more positive the outcome. Thicker needles can lead to scabbing."
Below are photos of Sarah Wilkinson from SKINMATRIX after a Skin Needling Facial.
Sarah has convinced me that the EDermastamp is the one to request. The EDermastamp is the thinnest needle width on the market and the only one approved by the TGA - Therapeutic Goods Association.
WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR?
Might sound pedantic but a safe treatment leads to a good outcome, right? So absolutely check that your therapist's needles are stainless steel and that they open the needling device from a sterilised packet in front of you before use.
WHAT ARE THE DANGERS AND SIDE EFFECTS?
SkinMatrix warn you to avoid Skin Needling if you have:
+ a condition that affects the clotting and regulation of your blood (as minor bleeds do occur),
+ open wounds including active acne skin types,
+ had recent injections such as Botox and fillers, or
+ very recent peels and laser treatments.
"Side effects from Skin Needling are minimal. You may get mild swelling, mild bruising and a little peeling. It's important that you follow the correct skin prep and after care to ensure that there is no reaction or post treatment hyper pigmentation. SkinMatrix don't use any actives during the treatment either, it's essential to allow the skin to do what it knows how to do, heal itself, and steer clear of active products for a minimum of 4 days post treatment."
A tailor made plan should be created by an experienced professional therapist. SkinMatrix have a prep kit that you need to use for 2 weeks prior to treatment to really get your skin in the best health prior to needling.
WHAT CAN YOU EXPECT TO PAY IN CLINIC?
Between $300 - $450/session.
POST TREATMENT CARE.
For the best results follow your therapists instructions religiously. You'll want to avoid makeup (mineral makeup will be fine). Best not plan a night out, a job interview, a meeting with a new client or your child's teacher that afternoon!
You will need a broad spectrum sunscreen, a gentle cleanser and the more you can moisturise your skin post needling the quicker the recovery. SkinMatrix offer an at home post-care kit which speeds up the recovery time.
USE A GENTLE CLEANSER.
Clemence Organics Refining Cleanser
This is the ultimate cleanser for restoring your skin to its best. Pure organic oils of geranium, patchouli and rose provide balancing, toning and anti-ageing benefits, whilst bearberry extract lightens and brightens the complexion. With its silky touch, this revolutionary cleanser will not only remove impurities, but soothe, nourish, and leave your skin feeling completely refined and restored. $35 for 120ml Click HERE to buy.
Ocinium Ecdysis Bioferment Enzyme Cleanser
A luxurious 100% natural cosmeceutical cream cleanser that gently purifies skin without disrupting the skin's delicate balance. It's incredibly moisturising. Luxe and Certified Organic.
$70 for 100ml
Click HERE to buy.
CRANK UP THE MOISTURISER
Clemence Organics Ultimate Face Cream
A luscious organic face cream rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. The finest botanicals stimulate skin repair and renewal, whilst hyaluronic acid promotes optimum skin hydration, plumping skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Ideal for all skin types, particularly skin which may be showing signs of ageing, sun damage, scarring and pigmentation. This non-greasy formula doubles as a primer, leaving your skin nourished, with a light glow. $59.95 for 50ml
Click HERE to Buy
Skinmatrix Ultra Dry Moisturiser
Designed for those skins that need super hydration. Our luxurious and smooth moisturiser keeps the skin moist and plump. If you have used our Hydracell Moisturiser but feel you would like an extra hit of moisture, our Ultra Dry Moisturiser is for you!
$68 for 50ml
MUST WEAR SUNSCREEN
Josh Rosebrook Nutrient Day Cream SPF 30
I've dedicated a whole blog post to this freaking AH-mazing product. Without doubt the BEST 100% natural, truly moisturising non-greasy sunscreen on the market. Click here to read more.
$92 for 30ml or $159 for 60ml
Click HERE to Buy.
Yogana Love SPF 15 Day Cream
100% pure and natural moisturising sunscreen has an SPF 15 and is naturally scented with Lavender Essential Oil and pure Vanilla Bean Oil. ZINC OXIDE – Zinc Oxide is a natural, physical sunscreening agent that sits on your skin reflecting both UVA and UVB rays. Our Zinc Oxide has an average particle size of 180nm. A nanoparticle is one with dimensions of less than 100nm. Zinc particles above 200nm are unable to act as sunscreens. RED RASPBERRY SEED OIL – Red Raspberry Seed Oil has an SPF of 28 – 50 and protects against UVA & UVB Rays.
$45. Click HERE to Buy from me and save $5.
Cosmedix Reflect Spray On Sunscreen
Truly weightless, gives broad spectrum protection in a non-irritating, oil-free formula. Perfect under makeup. * Note this is a chemical sunscreen. Recommended by the skin genius Sarah Wilkinson.
$69.30 for 120ml Click HERE to Buy.
Use the Code HM for 20% off at SkinMatrix
Congrats on making it to the end of this epic story on Skin Needling. Do your homework girls. Find someone who seriously knows what they're doing. Cheaper ain't going to be better. It really is super important to be armed with information so you make an informed choice. Only you can decide if Collagen Induction Therapy aka Micro Skin Needling is right for you. You're the boss.
PS To find out more about what products are right for you - for your face now (not the 20 year old version of you 😉) let's Spring Clean Your Makeup Bag. A personalised one-on-one 30 minute session with me where we declutter your beauty and makeup routine and provide recommendations on the right products for you. Click here to read more.